Do NOT use MRC 1300-series DC controllers with any of Rapido's locomotives. The RailPower 1300 is notorious for voltage spikes and it WILL destroy your locomotive. There is no “if” about it. We will try to help you if we have the parts, but we are not responsible for locomotive damage due to voltage spikes in your power supply. As well, we will not repair any locomotive damaged by an MRC 1300-series controller (or any other "train set" DC controller) unless you have retired the controller. Otherwise the damage will soon reoccur. “Train set” DC controllers should not be used with any modern model locomotives.
If your model arrives with damage or there is any other issue, the best thing to do is to call our support team. They take care of all of our warranty repairs and they are all swell guys. The toll-free number is 1-855-LRC-6917 (1-855-572-6917) (outside North America, +1 905-474-3314 or 905-474-3324).
Our DC GMD-1s are DCC-ready and come equipped with a 21-MTC plug for easy DCC decoder installation.
If you operate with a Digitrax DCC system and your DCC loco does not seem to be responding as it should, please try the fix described below before contacting us. It may save you some time and aggravation!
Apparently, some Digitrax systems store the address of every single loco that they've ever used on them, and regardless of whether the loco was dispatched or not. Once this memory fills up, any new locos that attempt to be used by that system exhibit very unusual behavior including non-working functions and odd responses.
The solution to this is easy. All you need to do is clear the memory in your system. This is done by clearing slot #36, see the instructions below. Once you've done this, you'll likely find that your loco operates exactly as you expected it should.
General Instructions for Closing Command Station Option Switches (for specific instructions for your command station and throttle, see the instruction manual for your equipment):
This suggestion was sent in from a customer. Some may find his suggestions useful:.
"When following the instructions in the manual on removing the shell, I discovered that even when the coupler boxes are removed, that shell does not want to move. It took me quite a while to get the shell off. Here is my procedure, you might want to add this to the manual for the GMD-1 'Next Generation' run.
Step 1 - Remove couplers per existing manual instructions.
Step 2 - Place the locomotive right side up on a solid work surface. Under the short hood, firmly pinch the middle of the truck.
Step 3 - Gently pinch the short hood and pull upward. The shell should lift anywhere between 1/8 and 1/2 an inch. Do not pull the shell to high, as the ditch light wires may tear.
Step 4 - Repeat the process for the long hood. Ideally, the long hood will lift, and the shell can be wiggled off. If it does not, some extremely gentle prying may be required at the location where the frame touches the back side of the pilot, or where the body frame meets the shell under the long hood." Do not pull the shell to high, as the ditch light wires may tear.
Step 5 - De-solder the ditch light wires. There is red paint on the positive lead of the wire, however it may flake off. We reccommend using a gold or silver coloured sharpie to mark the positive ditch light wire before de-soldering from the board.